MWP Sudoku Board

This project consists of the following three Easel files:

Easel File 1
Easel File 2
Easel File 3

While identical bits are not required, it is suggested to use bits similar to those used to create the original Sudoku board. Those bits are:

1/4" shank, 1/8" 2 flute downcut
1/8" shank, 1/8" 2 flute upcut
1/8" shank, 30 degree V-bit

Easel File 1 requires the user to have access to the two stage cut feature in Easel. Until it is released to the general public, access to this feature can be gained by request in this forum. It is recommended that the user try out the two stage cut feature on a piece of scrap wood to gain comfort with the feature before making the Sudoku board.

This project requires the user to home each bit in the same location. It is recommended that the user set $1=255 in Machine Inspector to lock the stepper motors during bit changes. Here’s More Info.

This project contains specific directions to make the Sudoku board. An overview of the process can be seen in the attached video.

For this project, I used .75" pine and the bits listed above. Use of a different material and/or bits may necessitate changing cut depths, feeds, and speeds.

The feeds and speeds in this project and its associated video (if published) are unique to my machine which has been stiffened in the X and Y axes, and has a Dewalt 611. Your machine may be different. Additionally, each machine is different and reacts differently.

You are responsible for using feeds and speeds appropriate to your machine. I take no responsibility for damage (material, bit, machine, or other) caused by using the values I provide.

Due to the shallow engraving depths, the wasteboard must be square to the spindle. If it is not, the numbers will either engrave too deep (and chip out details) or too shallow (and lose visibility). If necessary, level the wasteboard using a technique similar to that starting at 9:05 in the attached YouTube video.

Using a 1/4" shank 1/8" 2 flute downcut bit, home the bit on the lower left corner of the material and perform the roughing pass from Easel File 1 in Step 1.

Many factors can make the difference between a good cut and a rough cut or broken bit. They include machine modifications, bit size and type, and spindle speed. Always perform test cuts using the material and bit you are going to use before starting any project, and record your settings for future projects.

My machine has X and Y axis stiffness modifications, and a Dewalt 611. The cut settings I used were .050" depth, 75 inches per minute, and Dewalt speed of 2.

Using a 1/8" shank 1/16" 2 flute upcut bit, home the bit on the lower left corner of the material in the same place you homed the bit used in the previous step, and perform the detail pass from Easel File 1 in Step 1.

Many factors can make the difference between a good cut and a rough cut or broken bit. They include machine modifications, bit size and type, and spindle speed. Always perform test cuts using the material and bit you are going to use before starting any project, and record your settings for future projects.

My machine has X and Y axis stiffness modifications, and a Dewalt 611. The cut settings I used were .040" depth, 35 inches per minute, and Dewalt speed of 2.

Using a 30 degree V-bit, home the bit on the lower left corner of the material in the same place you homed the bit used in the previous step, and engrave the numbers into the material using Easel File 2 in Step 1.

Many factors can make the difference between a good cut and a rough cut or broken bit. They include machine modifications, bit size and type, and spindle speed. Always perform test cuts using the material and bit you are going to use before starting any project, and record your settings for future projects.

My machine has X and Y axis stiffness modifications, and a Dewalt 611. I used a 1/8 inch 30 degree V-bit on the engraving. The cut settings I used were .010" bit width, .035" full depth, .025" cut depth, 40 inches per minute, and Dewalt speed of 3.

Using a 1/4" shank 1/8" 2 flute downcut bit, home the bit on the lower left corner of the material in the same place you homed the bit used in the previous step, and cut out the board using Easel File 3 in Step 1.

Many factors can make the difference between a good cut and a rough cut or broken bit. They include machine modifications, bit size and type, and spindle speed. Always perform test cuts using the material and bit you are going to use before starting any project, and record your settings for future projects.

My machine has X and Y axis stiffness modifications, and a Dewalt 611. The cut settings I used were .050" depth, 80 inches per minute, and Dewalt speed of 2.

Sand the board and round over sharp edges if desired.

I applied two coats of sanding sealer before filling in the grid lines with enamel paint. This helped ensure the enamel paint would not bleed through the grain and pores, and would sand off the top surfaces when dry.

Using a large gauge needle to apply the enamel paint was VERY easy, I just filled the cut areas with enamel until it was level to the top of the board and allowed it to dry for a couple days. Using a card scraper to remove the paint on top of the board after dry prevented it from being ground into the grain by sandpaper.

After the paint was dry, I applied a few coats of polyurethane to help protect the board and give it a satin look. Do not apply lacquer if you used enamel paint.

This board was designed to be used with my Sudoku pieces. If you haven’t already made them, make the pieces by following the instructions in the MWP Sudoku Pieces project.